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'k, so there's this really great blog over at Strobist about how to use flash to get what you want. A really great blog.

There's only one problem for me.

It starts with the assumption that you're using a camera that has an accessory hot shoe. Now I've already bitched about the lack of a hot shoe on my camera, but we bought it before I started thinking about off-camera lighting.

I'm not going out and buying a new camera again. I've got two that are only a few months old.

Some of the stuff on Strobist I can take advantage of.

Some I'm going to have to guess about, because all I've got to trigger off-camera lighting is my on-camera strobe.

Anybody got anything specific to using off-camera lighting triggered by on-camera strobe? Information on how to get around some of the more obvious flaws?


( 5 comments — Leave a comment )
Jul. 19th, 2007 01:04 am (UTC)
If you're using slaves which trigger on you camera's strobe, and the camera's flash shutter speed is set to one of the standard < 1/125 speeds, I think you're pretty well covered. The flash itself fires in about 1/10000 sec, the delay in the slaves going off will still have them firing within that shutter window.

You may need to experiment with your autoexposure level, but that depends more on the distance of your slave flash units to the subject vs. the distance from subject to camera.
Jul. 19th, 2007 01:11 am (UTC)
I'm not worried about the slave units not working. Right now I've got an itty-bitty Canon off-camera slave strobe, and the cameras are designed to work with off-camera slave strobe.

I'm wondering if there are any tricks (deflectors, reflectors, or the like) that can be used to minimize the effect of the on-camera strobe on the overall lighting, or if there are any guides for planning lighting when removing on-camera strobe isn't an option.
Jul. 19th, 2007 01:50 am (UTC)
Read Strobist 101 bout the reflectors, flags, diffusers, and whatnought.

You can "tape" something over the flash or use a piece of white paper to diffuse the on-camera flash.

The problem with smaller cameras is usually that the flash is usually too close to the lens, and will cause flare. You need something like a lens hood ...or a flash hood that non only minimizes the flash but directs the light away from the lens.

That's the problem I have with my P&S flash.

But, I love Strobist.
Jul. 19th, 2007 05:43 am (UTC)
I'd recomend the hood to rediret the flash away from the subject. Maybe up the ceiling, where it can do some fill work.

The main issue with covering, blocking or diffusing the flash is that it may not trigger the slaves.

If you use multiple slaves, you can bounce/redirect the POS flash to one of the slaves, then it will fire lighting up the subject. Which then sets off the other slaves.

Jul. 19th, 2007 04:53 am (UTC)
OIC. Diffusion material in front of the camera flash might help. The rest depends on the angles and distances involved. The no-brainer is the farther the camera is from the subject, the less the flash will effect the image - so use a long lens when you can.
( 5 comments — Leave a comment )

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